There are good and bad results when you travel out of season.We tend to like Winter in Spain and Portugal because there are less crowds and you can escape the heat.However when travelling with the aim of visiting Churches and Museums, sometimes it just doesn’t work out. We were on a road trip through the North of Spain , travelling through Asturias and Gallicia down to Lisbon in Portugal and back via Madrid.
Oveido has 2 very important early Christians sites.San Julian de los Prados is an pre- Romanesque church dating from the beginning of the 9th century. It has very extensive and well preserved polychrome decoration, making it one of the most important in Western Europe. The other site are the two, again, pre Romanesque churches built on the Naranco mount above Oveido. San Miguel de Lilo dating from the 9th century. And Santa Maria del Naranco built as a place for King Ramirol again in the 9th century.
Problem is in winter they are only open at 10:00am till midday.
Public transport from one to the other is limited and in fact they open at 10:30 so it makes it impossible in January to do the two sites on the same day.So we didn’t end up seeing San Julian de Los Prados!!!
The town of Oveido is very elegant and stylish. We managed to find a great place on our second day.Lunch time packed with workers on their lunch break, all drinking cider and taking the menu de dia. Great atmosphere. Asturias is famous for its Cider, which is poured from the bottle at arms length.
Above is a selection of buildings in Oveido. Plus a famous Pastry shop specialising in local cakes and biscuits. Still has its original shop front.Below is an example.Almond cookies dipped in milk chocolate.
Other shops selling local specialities.Which include,paprika ,ham and cheeses.
The Cathedral of San Salvador in the old part of town.Founded in 781 ,the present building is Gothic begun in 1388. The tower was added in 1528.These are images from the Cathedral Museum, complete with Saint wearing a beauty chalky face mask .
After Oveido we visited Cambados, on the Gallician coast, famous for its Albarino wine. A light white wine with “botanical aromas” that is said to have come from the Rhine region with the monks from Cluny Monastery.Below our lunch, complete with Albarino wine.We had an Albarino on our list in Ireland.It is excellent with seafood.And we had it with this typical Gallician dish of Octopus.
Cambados has a lovely Square and a Manor house (see above) and bridge, dating from the 16th century, which connnects to gardens and a former forest.
However, even today ,the town allows parking and traffic to cross the square . It is very busy at peak hour with traffic pushing through to the other side of town. Our Hotel owners said the town are working on a by pass????
After that we headed to Portugal. That’s next time.